Shirt Collar Types and How to Choose Yours

Color, stripes, boxes, stamping bearing… These are some of the main features that highlight when purchasing a new shirt. However, few times we look at the importance of cuts, finishes and other details that may be even more important than the own tone of the garment.

One of those small details that make a difference is the choice of the neck. For the versatility of this piece of tailoring, there is one type for each person, causing them to enhance or pull a look studied to the millimeter.

According to fashion and depending on the cut, style that we use to frame our face can get a few effects on others.

English neck – turndown collar

English neck is the traditional neck of the dress shirts, look more or less logical considering that the classic tailoring was born in England. Whose cut is formal and discreet characterized by an elongated tips which vary their distance and length according to the master shirt. It tends to be higher that own casual shirts neck, so it covers more and gives the feeling of being more arranged. For this reason, it is often used with costume.

We use it with tie, should be borne in mind that, being narrower, this knot should be more thin and tight. Recommended for those heads of narrow diameter and long necks (highest as it covers more neck and adjust the proportions and tips together will visually more breadth to the head).

Italian neck – spread collar

The Italians chose a piece more open, more narrow foot and shorter tips than in the English case. It is typical of southern Europe.

It can be dressed both with and without a tie. In the case of opting for this add-on, the great advantage is that it leaves the knot bare, allowing more look and giving the possibility of using larger loops and wider ties.

Favors almost all kinds of faces and builds physically, especially benefiting large heads and short necks, since it be lower, it will give more air between the face and the neck, creating a more stylized illusion.

Cutaway collar

This proposal can be considered an evolution of Italian collar with a small variation. Continues to be short, with split ends, but its peculiarity is that the court of blades includes a slight curvature that makes it more special and flattering.

According to Borja Martín, director of tailoring of Scalpers, this style has achieved a rapid popularity and is the mainly chosen by the followers of fashion and the latest trends. In addition, recommends that, to make this look more, should be worn with tie simple and very narrow.

Please note that…
It is important that necks seen so far incorporate with some whales on the inside to keep the blades rigid. We can find them in different materials, from plastic to metal.

In addition, among the details that highlights Borja Martín is the ironing. The collar must be stretched just where does the natural fold that the tailor has marked because you run the risk of distorting it, and destroy it.

American neck – soft-roll collar

Americans, particularly Brooks Brothers, were the creators of the typical collar with buttons at the ends. Originally it was part of the uniform of the sportsmen, in order that the blades of the neck not abofetearan them face, but soon became part of the American wardrobe. Therefore, it is normal to see the Anglo-Saxons used suit. On the other hand, according to the European tradition (where more more purist tailoring), prevents its use with tie and are reserved for situations more casual. (You can check the full story here )

Own sportshirts is perfect for carrying without a tie neck and probes are not opened.

Pin Necklace
Americans, jobs fasten innovating of blades of the neck, they created the pin collar, with the probes close together, allowing you to join them with a safety pin. Until a few years ago, he was virtually in desuoso, but the series ‘Mad men’ thing has brought back.

As in the previous case, it is considered more informal, although most situations arranged than that of the soft-roll collar. Its main advantage is holding the ends in place without danger of leaving flying and enhancing the tie, which will be tight and narrow. Look at the wide necks and larger heads, venture its dimensions.

It evolves the bobo neck or rounded collar, which dispenses with the pin and adopts an (and use, see point 2) Italian aesthetic rounded tips that some designers are betting.

American collar with stopper
The Eduardo VIII King of England was a pioneer in using this type of neck on a trip to the United States and the Americans quickly adapted to their wardrobe. A more discreet way to fasten the ends of the neck. The particularity of this piece is that it has a strap that allows you to enhance the tie, so it is not conceived without use it…

Their more advantaged carriers? By his court, the same as those of English neck, long necks and diameters restraint of head.

Opera collar – wing collar

This is a very particular collar type. Its use is reserved for events of gala and ceremony in order to enhance the bow tie or necktie.

Coolie – mandarin collar

It is a short open piece, raised and with rounded ends inspired by the costumes of Imperial China. One option casual for all type of faces and perfect for the summer season, although for some times, this part is common to see children with buttoned and combined with American’s collar casually.

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